Feature Article

Paradise... Hawaiian Style

by Jim Prueter

Few places in the world are so universally loved and desirable as the island state of Hawaii. With the perfect combination of blue skies, water that glistens like sapphires, beaches with sand so fine it clings to your toes, lush green landscapes, endless summer temperatures and rich culture, it’s no wonder my vacation fantasies began working overtime when I was invited to visit the island of O’ahu.

The third largest of the Hawaiian islands (after the Big Island of Hawaii and Maui), O’ahu offers the most affordable beach vacations and the greatest accessibility, offering three times as many flights from the continental U.S.

Toss out all notions that you can’t get the “real” Hawaiian experience unless you visit Kaua’i, Maui or Lana’i. We wanted to experience O’ahu on our own and found it to be the quintessential getaway with one of the best places on earth to snorkel, luxury and rustic accommodations, gourmet restaurants with authentic Hawaiian food, cultural institutions, a thriving nightlife and remote beaches. Add year-round summer temperatures and it’s almost impossible to have anything but perfect days.

Our home base for four wonderful days was the enchanting Hyatt Regency Waikiki, perfectly located in the middle of famed Waikiki Beach. The location allowed us to easily explore the many area attractions, galleries, shops and eateries, most by foot. Here you’ll find my recommendations on where to find the “real Hawaii” on the island of O’ahu.

Surfing lessons
Visiting Hawaii and not surfing is like coming to Arizona and not seeing the Grand Canyon. At my age, the only surfing I’ve ever done was on the Internet. I figured that if I didn’t do it now, this “boomer” might not get another chance. So “surf lessons” were added to my must-do list.

We headed to the Hilton Hawaiian Resort Village on Duke’s beach, home of Pure Hawaiian Surf Academy operated by legend and big wave surf champion Clyde Aikau. It wasn’t until I showed up for my Saturday morning lesson that I learned it would be given by the 58-year-old Clyde himself, rather than one of his eight very capable professional surf instructors. This is the equivalent of going to a basketball clinic and having Michael Jordan as an instructor. If Clyde could teach Cameron Diaz and Justin Timberlake to surf, he should be able to teach me.

My lesson began on the beach, laying on a 12-foot longboard and learning how to paddle with both arms. Clyde assured me that the hardest part of learning to surf is getting the paddling right. And I thought the hardest part would be to keep from wiping out and falling off the board. We practiced one-on-one for about an hour on the sand before taking to the turquoise water and paddling to the waves.

As the swells came one after another, Clyde got me in position and, on cue, had me standing on the board. Just as quickly, in one quick smooth motion, I fell off the side of the board. Clyde was impressed with the fall, complimenting me for not falling off the front or rear where I would risk an encounter with my rider-less longboard.

I repeated my perfect falling a few more times before finally staying on the board and actually surfing. I rode another three waves to their conclusion, looking ridiculous I’m sure, but proud that I can say, “Yeah, I surf. How ’bout you?”

Aloha Tower Marketplace
One of the best places to snap pictures of Honolulu’s skyline and waterfront is from the observation deck of Aloha Tower at Honolulu Harbor. It’s open daily from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., and access is free. Opened in 1926, it is one of Hawaii’s most famous and recognizable landmarks and was, at one time, Hawaii’s tallest structure.

Today, the Aloha Tower stands over the Aloha Tower Marketplace, one of the only waterfront shopping centers in Hawaii. With two stories of interesting shops like the Hawaiian Ukelee Company, numerous indoor and outdoor restaurants and nightly outdoor entertainment, The Marketplace is a popular destination for tourists and passengers from the cruise ships that dock at Piers 9 and 10. We dined at Chai’s Island Bistro, an award-winning eatery that features regional Hawaiian and Pacific Rim cuisine prepared by owner-chef Chai Chaowasaree.

We were warmly greeted by Chef Chai and left it to him to choose our dining selections. If you go, don’t miss the seared ahi Napoleon, or Kataifi and macadamia-nut-crusted jumbo black tiger prawn appetizers. Our entrees included a to-die-for grilled Mongolian lamb chop with brandy demi glace, and crispy whole snapper with sun-dried tomato citrus buerre blanc and stir fried vegetables. We finished dinner with a cup of pressed 100 percent Kona Peaberry coffee served with a poached fresh pear melba Napoleon in a puff pastry.

Following dinner, we wandered over to the foot of the Aloha Tower where we were surprised to find fans enjoying a free concert by Hawaiian native and 2005 Grammy Award winner John Cruz. A perfect finish to a perfect day.

A word of caution: parking at the Marketplace is a nightmare and rates are unnecessarily high. Take the trolley or a taxi if you’re somewhat close by to avoid the cost and hassle.

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve
Sure it can be crowded, but simply said, Hanauma Bay Beach Park is the best snorkeling in Hawaii, period. Loaded with palm trees, the white coral sand beach is perfect for sunbathing, relaxing and picnicking. It is located approximately 10 miles east of Waikiki Beach on Kalaniana’ole Highway and was declared a protected marine life conservation area and underwater park in 1967. Because it’s located in the crater of an ocean-breached volcano, its clear, calm waters are loaded with marine life protected by an offshore reef. It’s like swimming in an aquarium.

If you go you need to know: no pets, alcoholic beverages, fishing or feeding the fish. The park is closed every Tuesday; admission is $5 for adults, free for anyone younger than 13, and parking is $1. Snorkel, mask and fin rental is available on the beach.

USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor
One drop of oil at a time rises from the engine room to the surface of the azure blue waters of Pearl Harbor, a perpetual reminder of the events of December 7, 1941. Visiting the 608-foot USS Arizona is an experience you will never forget. Operated jointly by the U.S. Navy and the National Park Service, the Memorial, a pure white 184-foot rectangular structure, spans the hull of the ship that lies just six feet below the harbor’s surface. The Arizona sunk in just nine minutes without ever firing a shot, taking 1177 sailors and Marines with it.

Admission is free but arrive early to avoid the long lines. Waits of up to three hours are not uncommon. Security measures prohibit visitors to the Memorial from carrying purses, handbags, camera bags or any other type of bag capable of concealment. Visitors can rent a container for $2 to stow items. Also unacceptable: baby strollers, carriages or backpacks. All babies must be carried.

Driving up the North Shore Beaches
“What’s the biggest misconception people have about O’ahu?” I asked our hostess, Melissa Malahoff-Kamei, a representative for the O’ahu Visitors Bureau. To which she quickly responded, “That you have to visit the other islands to see authentic and true Hawaii.”

Want proof of that statement’s fallacy? Slip on your swimsuit and a t-shirt, drop the top on a rented Jeep and head north on the two-lane Kamehameha Highway toward the North Shore. Loaded with all types of vehicles, the pace is slow — always below the posted speed limit — so you’ll want to allow a full day if you’re staying in Honolulu.

There’s no major town or single spot that announces you’ve arrived at the North Shore.
Don’t expect upscale resorts, condominium developments or glitzy shopping. Rather, take your time stopping at places like the famous Waimea Bay with its 20- to 30-foot winter waves; the Banzai Pipeline (remember the surf hit Pipeline by The Ventures?); Sunset Beach; Shark’s Cove; and Turtle Beach where, during winter months, you’re likely to spot Lana’i’s endangered Hawaiian green sea turtles shore feeding. Pristine beaches line almost the entire drive. Any of them are perfect for just kicking back, sunbathing, picnicking, swimming, boogie boarding or snorkeling.

You’ll want to save your appetite for one of the roadside graffiti-covered trucks that serve shrimp right out their side windows — like the legendary Giovanni’s Original White Shrimp Truck. For about $10 you can enjoy an oversized plate of you-peel-’em garlic shrimp and rice (you’ll smell the garlic before you see the truck). A few feet away is The Famous Kahuku Shrimp Truck that adds a variety of Thai dishes to the menu. Further up the road is Romy’s Kahuku Shrimp & Prawns and then Macky’s Original Shrimp Farm. Just before you reach Sunset Beach is Ted’s Bakery, a delicious spot for homemade pie.

Lunch at 'Ono Hawaiian Food
This is the place for authentic Hawaiian food. For almost 40 years ‘Ono Hawaiian Foods has literally had a line outside its door. It’s a small, hole-in-the-wall eatery with perhaps 10 tables and simple décor, wallpapered with autographed photos of celebrities. A simple hand-lettered sign outside implores you to “Please wait outside, make a line, be cool, no get mad, be happy and we will be with you very soon.” This is where the locals line up daily for kula pig, luau style. Whole pigs are brushed with salt and steamed overnight in a wood-fired underground oven. Banana and ti leaf wrappers keep the meat moist while native kiawe wood infuses the deep smoky flavor. Chicken laulau is available only on Wednesdays and sells out fast. If you’re a first-timer to Hawaiian food, let owners Cindy Oh Young and Clayton Sueko choose your fare. No disappointments, but also no reservations, no credit cards, no checks. 726 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; closed Sundays. 

Best place to buy an aloha shirt
Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts is just two blocks from ‘Ono Hawaiian Foods and features the world’s largest selection of aloha shirts (over 15,000). Mostly vintage, but also nearly new, collectible and new Hawaiian shirts, ranging in price from $3.99 to over $5,000, crowd the store and even hang from the ceiling. The New York Times listed Bailey’s as a “must see” shop for visitors with 36 hours or less in Honolulu. It’s Hawaiiana at its finest. 517 Kapahulu Ave., Honolulu.

Best place to buy a t-shirt
Located on the Waikiki Beach Walk, Malibu Shirts is a one-of-a-kind t-shirt shop that doubles as surfing museum, with artifacts and legends that detail the history of Hawaiian surfing. A display of classic antique surfboards hangs from the ceiling. All the shirts are based on classic designs in their original style. Some duplicate the patchy look of missing flocking, a popular fabric treatment in the 1950s and ’60s that features faded graphics and a ragged neckline. 226 Lewers St., Honolulu. malibushirts.com

O’ahu is one happy place where visitors can pursue vacation passions at their own pace. Visit the other islands if you must, but we were content to let O’ahu and its easygoing style do it all.

Photos by Jim Prueter