Lone Star Legends:
A Musical Tour of Texas’ Historic Dance Hall
By Tiffany Owens

Paying a visit to most of Texas’ more than 100 dance halls typically requires a bit of navigational prowess: winding your way via two-lane highways or farm-to-market (FM) roads, often passing one-stoplight towns, barbeque stands and vast fields of wildflowers grazed by long-horned steer. Sure, there are a few notable exceptions — like Austin’s Broken Spoke or Billy Bob’s Texas in Fort Worth city proper — both highly amusing adventures in their own right.

But no matter the location, the best part of the experience comes later, when you find yourself standing inside one of these century-old “hardwood havens” with their boot-worn floors, hand-carved rafters, ancient wiring and chicken-wire windows. The effect is like instantly traveling back to a simpler time, within a piece of living history that is still very much alive.

The disappearing Texas
Last February, several of these beloved halls found themselves at the top of Preservation Texas’ annual list of the most endangered historic places statewide. Advocates caution that the Texas dance-hall tradition could disappear altogether if there is no revival or rejuvenation for the buildings, many of which still have the original structures, wiring and plumbing.

“Our 2008 endangered list recognizes an important statewide trend — the neglect of Texas dance halls and the negative impact of suburban development encroachment on the cultural history of Texas,” said Libby Buuck, president of Preservation Texas, Inc., a nonprofit group that raises funds and awareness to save historic buildings. “True Texas treasures, many of our classic dance halls are cultural landmarks, founded by fraternal orders, singing societies, gun clubs and agricultural organizations. Many had their roots in the traditions of Czech and German immigrants as well as in the Mexican-American and African-American cultures. They have been such an important part of our heritage that it is easy to take them for granted. By calling attention to the demise of these dance halls, we want to encourage residents to act while there’s still time.”

Another advocacy group, Texas Dance Hall Preservation, was founded last year after DeWitt County’s Gruenau Hall was destroyed in a fire. Built in 1900, it was one of the state’s rare round dance halls with maple hardwood floors. Dance halls were often among the first public structures built in a town, said the group, which estimates as many as 1200 were active in the early 20th century. Most have been lost and many of those still standing have been abandoned or converted for alternate uses, such as Saengerhalle in New Braunfels, which closed in July 2006 and is now a church.

The big payback
Whether playing Western swing to traditional country or Tejano music, today’s performers also play a key role in keeping the dance halls alive and thriving. In return, the dance halls give Texan musicians a wide variety of venues to play live music.
They’ve also launched more than a few careers. Amarillo native Kevin Fowler does an annual Deck the Dancehalls tour each December, marking his fourth year of the dance hall trail in 2007. “As Texas musicians, we’re lucky we can make a living playing dance halls all the time,” Fowler has said. “In Texas music, you’re given the freedom to try to do something different. No matter what goes on the Top 40 chart, Texas music is always going to be chugging along.”

However, many people don’t realize that several hundred of the dance halls still exist. Supporters want Texans (and tourists) to visit these places where families and communities danced and learn about a slice of state history, said Patrick Sparks, president of the dance hall preservation group. “The key to saving them is to get people dancing in them,” Sparks said. “It’s the most Texas thing there is.”

While working in Texas’ Hill Country for a few months last year, I tried to visit as many of the historic dance halls as possible. From the people of every age that would gather from miles around to dance the night away, to the local color and countryside, smoky BBQ, and extensive music history (still in the making), the dance halls easily became a favorite part of Texan life. As such, here’s a round-up of my top four: I hope they inspire you to pull on your best pair of cowboy boots and head on over, which might also help ensure that they’ll stay around for many generations to come.

Gruene Hall, New Braunfels
Gruene (pronounced “Green”) Hall was my first Texas dance hall experience, tucked into the sleepy town of New Braunfels, about 45 miles south of Austin. A potluck birthday party was being held in the front room around the potbelly stove, while a local band was tuning up to play on the main stage, so we took a seat at one of the well-worn picnic tables behind the dance floor to take in the show.

The stage is decorated with original tin signs from companies like Blue’s Sugar Bowl and framed by a painted canvas backdrop. A rusty tin roof is the only existing cover for the aged wood rafters and dusty wiring. The tiny bathrooms serve as a changing area for artists and are still in the same location as they were 100 years ago. 

Built in 1878, Gruene has brought an impressive roster of performers to its stage, such as Garth Brooks, Jerry Jeff Walker, Chris Isaak, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Kris Kristofferson, Jerry Lee Lewis, Albert Collins, Ernest Tubb and Little Richard, illustrated by the overwhelming amount of autographed photos that decorate its walls. However, one whole section of this hallowed space is dedicated to George Strait, who cut his musical teeth at Gruene in 1975, playing regularly with his Ace in the Hole band. The back photo for his debut album Strait Country was taken at Gruene and depicts a young, handsome Strait in 1981. “They were just awesome guys,” said owner Pat Molak. “We didn’t have an office. When they finally started getting big, we’d settle up on the pool table.”

Strait later shot a Bud Light video on-site. Many recordings and movies have also used Gruene as the ultimate setting, including Pat Green’s Here We Go live album, Michael (starring John Travolta) and Flesh and Bone (with Dennis Quaid and Meg Ryan).
“Gruene is the quintessential Texas dance hall experience,” Green said in Dance Halls & Dreamers. “It’s history co-mingling with a few cold beers and good music. That’s a pretty good way to do things.”

Floore’s Country Store, Helotes
Gruene Hall may hold the title of Texas’ oldest dance hall, but Floore’s Country Store was the epicenter of honky-tonk music in the ’60s and early ’70s. Nestled on a dusty side road off of Highway 16 on the outskirts of San Antonio, you’ll know you’ve arrived once you see the cacophony of signs that rise up to greet you, including “World’s Best Homemade Tamales” and “Willie Nelson Every Sat. Nite.”

Willie still does the occasional show, but back in the early ‘70s, Floore’s was his main stage. He wrote his hit song “Crazy” here and referred to the original owner, John T. Floore, in “Shotgun Willie.”

From the beginning, Floore’s has attracted scores of live music fans and, back in the day, Johnny Cash, Bob Wills, Buck Owens, Patsy Cline, Hank Williams and Ray Price all performed there. Robert Earl Keen recorded his 1996 concert album, No. 2 Live Dinner at Floore’s and Lyle Lovett paid homage in “San Antonio Girl.” Today, the club showcases local talent like Reckless Kelly and the Randy Rogers Band.

Now on its fourth owner, Floore’s has been given a second life with the recent installment of a new roof and air conditioning, along with picnic tables, several outdoor bars, wooden fence and a Honky Tonk Cafe. The facilities also include a massive outdoor patio that’s perfect for music under the stars, plus a smaller indoor dance floor that holds around 400 people.

Recently, the Texas Historical Commission awarded Floore’s an official Texas Historical Marker. Floore’s was also newly admitted into the National Register of Historic Places, designating it as a significant part of local history.

Luckenbach Dance Hall, Luckenbach
“In Luckenbach, Texas / Ain’t nobody feelin’ no pain,” sang Waylon Jennings in his 1977 classic ode, which quickly made the remote hamlet a household name. “Where Everybody’s Somebody” is the Luckenbach’s official motto. They also like to say around town that you can’t find a place more laid-back without being unconscious.

The tiny community was established as a trading post in 1849; the still-standing post office was built in 1854. Jerry Jeff Walker’s live recording Viva Terlingua and Willie Nelson’s huge Fourth of July celebrations in the ’90s helped keep Luckenbach on the map.

With an open-air vibe reminiscent of Arizona’s Greasewood Flats, but on a larger scale, it’s a favorite destination for the biker crowd and is a cash-only operation. Luckenbach consists of an outdoor stage, post office/general store/cantina, western wear and souvenir shops, plus a large dance hall built in 1883 (now, one of the latest entries on the “endangered” list). Live music can be heard daily outdoors in the summertime and Friday night dances are usually free, as is the mid-week entertainment. The dance hall hosts more than two dozen national acts a year and the whole town can be rented for around $1,500 a night.

“There is no way you can orchestrate or create what Luckenbach has come to be,” said Kit Patterson, (grandson of the town’s revivalist, Hondo Crouch), in Dance Halls & Dreamers. “It’s a combination of so many people’s different lives, the time, the place, the culture, the music. People either get it or they don’t. It’s a bit more three-dimensional than Waylon, Willie and the boys. There’s no population, but there is a community here.”

Old Coupland Inn & Dance Hall, Coupland
Owners Rick and Ronnie Silverman purchased the Coupland Inn and Dance Hall in June 2007 and have been working hard ever since to restore it to its original glory. “I saw the sad state of repairs and felt that I needed to try and keep a piece of Texas history alive,” Rick said.

The 7000-square-foot Coupland Dance Hall was built in 1910 and, within the last century, also functioned as a mercantile store and publishing headquarters for a newsletter called “The Coupland Tavern World Globe News.” Two bars from inside the Tavern, both over a century old, remain in the dance hall along with a larger, beveled mirrored bar built in 1886 — buckshot holes still intact. In recent years, Coupland has served as the on-site location for TV (Lonesome Dove miniseries), music (Stevie Ray Vaughn’s “Change It” video) and movies (Clint Eastwood’s A Perfect World). 

Coupland also incorporates a full-service restaurant serving steak, barbeque and homemade desserts. But what’s most unique about the space is the historic inn/B&B upstairs, recently remodeled in the style and spirit of its original incarnation: an early 1900s bordello. Packages start at $166 and include double-occupancy room, dinner for two at the restaurant, reserved seating at that evening’s live show, continental breakfast and perhaps a surprise or two.

“Because Coupland was not designed or constructed as a performing arts center, we don’t have dressing rooms for the artists,” Rick explains. “Before their performance, they go upstairs to the B&B and shower and hang out in the parlor area before their performance. About a month ago, I had Texas legend Gary P. Nunn performing on a Saturday night. While he was rehearsing, my guests were treated to a private concert. A few weeks later, Brandon Rhyder also played a private show for my guests while his gear was being loaded up for the next performance. I am unaware of any other place where guests have personal access to performers and are treated like such VIPs.”

Tiffany Owens is a freelance writer, currently living in midcoast Maine.
Photos courtesy of Tiffany Owens

IF YOU GO:

Gruene Hall
1281 Gruene Rd.
New Braunfels, TX 78130
830-606-1281
gruenehall.com

Floore’s Country Store
14492 Old Bandera Rd./Hwy. 16
Helotes, TX 78023
210-695-8827
liveatfloores.com

Luckenbach Dance Hall
412 Luckenbach Town Loop
Luckenback, TX 
830-997-3224 / 888-311-8990
luckenbachtexas.com

Old Coupland Inn & Dance Hall
101-103 Hoxie Street
Coupland, TX 78615
512-856-2226
couplanddancehall.com

FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Texas Dance Halls: A Two-Step Circuit | Texas Tech University Press
Author Gail Folkins, a self-proclaimed “dance hall wife,” amassed this lively compendium while touring the dance hall circuit with husband/bassist John. J. Marcus. Weekley’s companion photographs help to capture the nostalgia and beauty of these historical haunts. With eighteen colorful “a day-in-the-dance-hall life” narratives and more than 130 striking duotone photos, reading Texas Dance Halls is the next best thing to being there.

Pat Green’s Dance Halls & Dreamers | University of Texas Press
Author Luke Gilliam tells the vibrant stories of ten historic dance halls, as seen through the eyes of Pat Green and fellow country artists Willie Nelson, Robert Earl Keen, Ray Wylie Hubbard, Wade Bowen, Kevin Fowler, Jack Ingram, Cory Morrow and more. These amusing narratives offer music lovers a rare, behind-the-scenes glimpse into the hearts and souls of these hallowed dance halls from the musicians that love them.