GETTING
AWAY
Outback New Mexico
Up before dawn, my tour group drove gravel roads to the middle of a rocky field
of low-lying sage. The sun peaked over the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, washing
away the 
shadow of the ridge. We laid the nylon tarp across the ground, turned
on a giant fan, and watched the balloon fill and rise. Five of us jumped into
the basket just before someone released the hot-air balloon from its stakes.
Without the ground for friction, flying in the balloon was just like one of those
floating dreams. A bird?s-eye view of the valley revealed a steep gorge in the
Taos Mesa gouged by the Rio Grande River. The pilot directed the balloon into
the steep canyon below the plateau before returning up top for a landing.
New Mexico loves its balloons — they are on the license plate after all. And
come summer, the balloons become a semipermanent part of Taos’ morning horizon,
adding ballooning to the long list of activities to do outside.
Taos is the quintessential picture of the Southwest: a dry valley surrounded
by mountains, smelling of lavender and sage, and filled with stucco buildings.
It has become synonymous for sites that attract the artsy type, beginning with
the Taos Art Colony at the turn of the 20th century and later welcoming such
notables as Ansel Adams, Georgia O’Keeffe and D.H. Lawrence. Doubtless attracted
to the northern New Mexico area for its landscape, artists and other outdoor
enthusiasts looking to revel en plein air are still coming in equal numbers today.
Outfitters run white-water rafting trips through various portions of the Rio
Grande, ranging from serene rolls down the river to intense Class IV maneuvers.
The Taos Box, running straight through the deepest part of the gorge, is the
most difficult portion of the river. Guides lead groups through this natural
waterpark, sharing anecdotes and pointing out flora and fauna. And the easy Orilla
Verde portion of the river allows for plenty of swimming.
Taos is bordered on three sides by government-protected parks: Carson National
Forest; Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; and Wheeler Peak Wilderness
Area, which marks the highest point in the state. Summits on Wheeler’s slopes
afford views of the Sangre de Cristos reflecting red in the waning afternoon
sun.
Some think the only proper way to experience the West is on horseback, and for
those looking to travel in true cowboy fashion, there are a number of stables
in the area. With horseback riding, the horse does the work (or most of it),
and the animals are so familiar with the trails that they could walk them by
moonlight. Lajitas Stables has Wheeler Peak Wilderness Area excursions of varying
length geared toward all members of the family.
Wild Earth Llama Adventures teams visitors with the Andean pack animals for tours
of the Rockies. The family-run operation takes groups into the New Mexican wilderness
for daylong and multiday excursions accompanied by the reputedly friendly llamas.
It’s backcountry trekking made easy with llamas hauling the heavy stuff. Wild
Earth takes trekkers to the Wheeler Peak, Columbine/Hondo and Latir wilderness
areas and to the Rio Grande Gorge, getting visitors deep into the heart of New
Mexico.
Taos Ski Valley, adjacent to Wheeler, is the base for excursions up the peak.
Family-owned and operated, the ski resort is known for its challenging runs in
winter and long-held traditions — the kind of place families come back to year
after year. Plus, it offers an economic alternative to some of Colorado’s swanky
ski towns. And with 300-some days of sun, nothing could be more tempting than
hitting the slopes.
But the lifts are also open during the summer, with hiking shortcuts to the peaks.
Because the area is replete with alpine lakes, wildflowers and wildlife, this
is a great place to be outdoors.
Going on two wheels is another outdoor adventure alternative. Mountain biking
is an obvious option, but the area also has some scenic road rides. There’s the
popular 18-mile ride from town to the Taos Ski Valley, the Wild Rivers Recreation
Area to the northwest and Angel Fire to the west.
There are spectacular views from the top of the mesa at Wild Rivers and a six-mile
biking trail, as well as trails down to the convergence of the Rio Grande and
Red rivers. The Enchanted Circle is an 84-mile tour that loops from Taos to Red
River to Eagle Nest and back.
Angel Fire functions as a ski resort in the winter and an extreme sports epicenter
in the summer, even hosting the mountain biking World Cup. Visitors can race
the black-diamond-rated trails just like the pros, and bikes can be loaded onto
the chairlift going to the mountaintop and ridden back down, thus eliminating
excruciating uphill climbs. The resort also offers hiking, fishing, horseback
riding, rafting and all-terrain vehicles for rent.
In Taos, the only thing that could stand in the way of a memorable vacation is
a rainy day.
Lainey R. Seyler is assistant editor of AAA’s
Home & Away magazine.
Top photo: courtesy of PuebloBalloon.com; Bottom photo: by Harmon House Designs, courtesy of the Destination Connection team
If You Go
Taos Visitor Center
1139 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos
800-816-1516
taosvisitor.com 
