Adventurous Kauai
By Rebecca Antioco

We arrived in Hawaii in the aftermath of an earthquake. Disembarking from the plane in Honolulu, where the airport was operating on limited power, we wandered through the half-lit corridors to the inter-island terminal. As we approached the gate area, the quiet desertion we found in the rest of the airport gave way to a sea of stranded island-hoppers like ourselves, waiting for the grounded planes to be cleared for take-off.

In typical island fashion, the airline employees took everything in stride, with a kind of “no worries” attitude that at once set travelers at ease and was quickly contagious. The prevailing attitude among the strandees trying to leave Honolulu was, “I may be stuck in the airport for an indeterminate amount of time, but at least I’m in Hawaii. How bad could that be?” We ended up camping at the terminal for a mere eight hours as power outages came and went, and flights were cleared to go, then grounded again.

Arriving at the Lihue airport on Kauai well after midnight, we picked up our rental car and set out for the Princeville Resort. The route was deserted, the night pitch-black. “Wow,” mused my husband, “I’ll bet this is really beautiful.” We drove on in the darkness, expecting to come upon a populous tourist area that would indicate to us that maybe we should start looking for the hotel. When we reached the end of the road, we thought again. We had driven right past the discreetly marked property, which is set back a few miles from the road. Where was all of the nightlife, the lei’d and suntanned tourists wandering the streets in search of an ABC Store? On Oahu, that’s where, right where they belong.

Kauai provides a wholly different Hawaiian experience than the hustle and bustle of Oahu and Waikiki Beach. The oldest of the Hawaiian islands has a quiet aura, as only a place that’s merely two percent developed can. It is lush with vegetation, begetting its nickname “The Garden Isle.” People visit to revel in the seclusion, and for that reason many consider Kauai to be one of the most romantic Hawaiian destinations. Just ask Deborah Kerr and Burt Lancaster, who shared a legendary movie kiss on its beaches.

Kauai is Bali Hai and Jurassic Park; it’s the Temple of Doom and the birthplace of modern-day King Kong. And while you can’t drive to many of its nether reaches, there is an abundance of ways to explore them.

The best way to get an overview and to really grasp the meaning of the word “pristine” is to take a helicopter tour of the island. We soared over Kauai, into volcanic craters and over the spectacular Waimea Canyon. Each turn unveiled a scene more spectacular than the last, revealing cascading waterfalls, lush hillsides and verdant canyons.

Down on the ground, you can have a more participatory experience. Several wilderness outfitters offer a variety of tours that let you see different parts of the island via varying modes of transportation.

We chose the Kipu Falls Safari, a kayaking/hiking/ziplining/waterfall jumping/hayriding tour of the Hule’ia River and Kipu Falls. The first leg of our safari took place by kayak down the historic jungle stream. Our guide explained the basics of paddling, steering, controlling speed, and how not to end up divorced as a result of the excursion. After all, while the island may nurture romance, there’s no quicker way to kill it than to send a couple out in a kayak together. The cardinal rule, according to our guide, is for the person in the front to never, under any circumstances, turn around to see what his or her mate is doing. The theory being, if you don’t know what he’s doing wrong, you can’t argue over it. This approach worked remarkably well over the course of our two-mile journey.

Lest you be intimidated by the length of the tour, the pace is leisurely and the guides at Kauai Outfitters keep it fun, pausing from time to time to point out natural landmarks and revel their captive audience with ancient tales and legends that bring the landscape to life. There’s even a “Raiders of the Lost Ark” moment, when a guide swings out into the river at the exact spot that Indiana Jones evaded his pursuers in the famous movie.

Next is lunch and an exhilarating ride on a 275-foot zipline through the forest canopy over the river. Admittedly, it looks scary standing on the platform, but once you make the leap, the feeling is pure excitement. Walking across the 80-foot suspension bridge to return to the “loading area” was more nerve-wracking. The zipline adventure is a rush, the only negative being that we only got one shot at it.

High on adrenaline, adventurers are led to the final stop on their safari, a short hike along the forest trail to Kipu Falls. Brave souls can jump off of the falls into swimming holes at the base of the black lava-rock cliffs, or swing on ropes tied to branches high over the mountain pools. I preferred to watch the action, relaxing in the cool water and enjoying the view.

Don’t worry; you don’t have to paddle back after all of that activity. A powered canoe returns you to the launch point, and you’re free to return to the hotel for umbrella’ed drinks, lounging on the beach and perhaps a nap. 

You could spend the whole time on Kauai lounging by the resort pools, taking beachside massages, and sipping tropical drinks. We chose instead to try a tubing excursion through the irrigation canals of an old sugar plantation.

Founded in 1849, the Lihue Plantation was operational until about 2000. Sugar cane is a thirsty crop, requiring about 1 million gallons of water per day to irrigate 100 acres. It takes 500 gallons of water to produce just one pound of sugar. The plantation’s irrigation system consists of 51 miles of ditches with 18 intakes. The four-mile Hanama’lulu Ditch irrigation system, which is used for the tubing expedition, was engineered in 1870.

Those who may feel intimidated by a kayaking or hiking excursion needn’t have the same fears about tubing. The most arduous task involved in tubing is hauling the inner tube from the van to the edge of the ditch, then plopping your derriere through the hole. The gentle currents take it from there, playfully shuttling the tubes and their passengers along. Each person is outfitted with a pair of gloves and a miner-style hard hat, complete with headlamp, for use in the tunnels. The day ends with a picnic lunch and a van ride back to Kauai Backcountry Adventures headquarters.

So after all of that adventure, is there still time for romance? Sure. My husband and I enjoyed a picnic on the beach, candlelit dinners, quiet time on the beach and, most importantly, time away from the chaos and hustle of everyday life. We left Kauai refreshed, invigorated and ready to plan our next adventure. 

Photos courtesy of Kauuai Vistors Bureau

If you go

Stay

Princeville Resort
Located on the North Shore of the Island near the famous Napali Coast, this upscale resort offers some of the best views on Kauai. It’s close to Hanalei (where Puff the Magic Dragon famously frolicked), where quaint shops line the streets of the town center. The resort will soon undergo a major renovation, replacing its elegant European styling with a more upscale island feel.
808-826-9644
Princeville.com

Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa
On the South Shore at Koloa, the Hyatt overlooks Keoneloa Bay, and is a family-friendly resort with waterslides, kids pools and waterfall grottoes.
808-742-1234
Kauai.hyatt.com

Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club
A short drive from the airport in Lihue, the Kauai Marriott features the largest single pool in all of the Hawaiian Islands.
808-245-5050
marriotthawaii.com

Play

Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures
Sail the Napali Coast with Captain Andy’s crew and you won’t be disappointed. The views are spectacular and the guides fun and knowledgeable. Take a dinner cruise to experience a sunset you won’t soon forget. A word of warning: your favorite seasickness preventative is recommended.
808-335-6833
napali.com

Heli USA Airways
Get a bird’s-eye view of the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” and fly into volcanic craters on a grand helicopter tour of the island.
808-826-6591
heliusa.com

Kauai Backcountry Adventures
Ecotourism at its most fun, Backcountry Adventures leads zipline tours and tubing adventures through the irrigation canals of an old sugar plantation. Enjoy exclusive access to over 17,000 acres of former plantation lands. Guides provide a fun history lesson and double as entertainment.
808-245-2506
Kauaibackcountry.com

Outfitters Kauai
Kayak, zip and play like Tarzan through the jungles and rivers around Kipu Ranch. Outfitters also offers a Canyon to Coast bicycle tour and ocean kayaking adventures.
808-742-9667
outfitterskauai.com

For more information, contact the Kauai Visitors Bureau at 808-245-3971 or kauaidiscovery.com.

HIGHROADS Home