Weekender

Llama Lovers Weekend

There is an irresistible attraction between kids and llamas. It may be the llama’s lashy Mae West eyes. Or maybe it’s the noise they make — an ethereal humming noise that Swiss naturalist Johann Jakob von Tschundi once said sounded like “a number of Aeolian harps in concert.” It may be the fact that llamas can wiggle their ears one at a time or together. Or maybe it’s just that llamas are so clearly the source of Dr. Doolittle’s Push-Me Pull-You.

But kids are drawn to llamas, and if the llamas at the Fossil Creek Ranch in Strawberry, Ariz., are any indication, the attraction is mutual.

Fossil Creek Ranch owners John and Joyce Bittner raise goats and llamas, and offer a unique vacation option — a sort of a cross between camping and a B&B.  On the hillside above their 15-acre ranch, overlooking the ponderosa pines of Tonto National Forest in Northern Arizona and a herd of friendly llamas, they have two yurts and a teepee that can be rented by the night. 

Each yurt sleeps up to seven people on futons — you bring the sleeping bags. The teepee sleeps two. “It’s a bit of an adventure,” says Joyce. “But it’s not as rugged or uncomfortable as camping. You’re up off the ground, you don’t have to pack or set up a tent, and the yurts have spectacular views.”

But if the teepee or yurts don’t appeal, Joyce’s sister, Karen Muench, operates the Up the Creek Bed & Breakfast about 500 feet up the road.

Fossil Creek ranch’s llamas and goats are friendly and welcome petting and even the occasional hug. John makes goat’s milk cheese and goat’s milk fudge, and is happy to demonstrate (and provide samples). Guests are also welcome to give him a hand with the feeding and milking. “We’ve had grandparents who brought their city-dwelling grandkids for the weekend just to see the milking. A lot of kids have no idea where milk comes from, so it’s really an experience for them,” says John. 

The combination of clean air, adorable animals, and stunning views makes for a great family weekend, but the Bittners also offer a romantic getaway package that includes a night in the cozy teepee, a bottle of wine, and a professional masseuse on the deck.

Of course, the main attraction at Fossil Creek Ranch is the llama treks that Joyce and two of her llamas, Michael Jordan and Sierra, lead.

One llama hike ravels eight miles to a swimming hole in one of only three natural blue-green travertine springs in Arizona. Another hike travels four miles into the Coconino National Forest. At a cool elevation of 7000 feet, you travel on the Mogollan Rim through the Ponderosa pines and past several natural rock formations.  The views are outstanding, and the llamas carry your lunch.

They also lead guests on two-hour sunset hikes in the National Forest bordering their ranch. The sunset hike overlooks the canyons of Fossil Creek, and hikers stop for a goat-milk fudge and cheese snack while watching the sun set over the mountains. If you want to bring a bottle of wine to sip with your cheese, the llamas will carry it for you.

Two hours from Phoenix, Fossil Creek Ranch is one of the cooler climes in Arizona. Within a couple hours of Fossil Creek Ranch are a number of other attractions, including the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert National Park, ruins of 12th century Singagua cliff dwellings at Montezuma Castle National Monument, Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, and horseback riding at Kohl Ranch Stables.

Photos by Lisa Anderson Mann

If You Go
Fossil Creek Ranch
928-476-5178; www.fossilcreekllamas.com

Half-day llama hikes are $65 per adult and $40 for children under 12. The price includes lunch. Sunset hikes are $25 per person.
The yurts sleep up to seven people and rent for $85 a night. The teepee sleeps two, and also rents for $85 a night. Breakfast is $5 per person.

Up the Creek B&B
10491 Fossil Creek Rd., Strawberry
928-476-6571; www.upthecreekbedandbreakfast.com
Rates: $120 (double room) to $140 ( for  a suite sleeping 4). No children under 12.