On the Trail of Turquoise
by George Oxford Miller


The Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway connects ancient mines and ghost towns reborn as artist communities.

From the shops and vendors in Old Town Albuquerque to the Native American artists on the plaza in Santa Fe, the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway connects the two cities with mines and traditions that date back seven centuries. The 65-mile route, State Highway 14, parallels I-25, but it passes through a world where the mining and jewelry-making have changed little since Puebloan miners chiseled the sacred blue stone from shallow digs. Exploring the old mining towns, new artist communities, and even the location for the 2007 movie "Wild Hogs" makes an exciting daytrip or weekend holiday.

To learn more about the local history of turquoise before our journey, visit the Turquoise Museum across the street from Old Town Albuquerque. The museum displays turquoise from thirty mines across the Southwest, while the lapidary shop demonstrates how the mineral is cut, polished, and set in jewelry. The owner and fourth-generation turquoise miner Joe Dan Lowry greets us and begins our lesson in Turquoise 101.

After hearing that turquoise jewelry dates back to 3500 BC Egypt, we learn the difference between “natural” and “treated” turquoise. “Gravel can be pretty, but it’s not a gemstone,” Lowry says. “Only 15 percent of the turquoise mined is gemstone quality. The most common is white and soft as chalk. The turquoise in most jewelry is pressurized, dyed and stabilized with epoxy to make it hard enough to cut and polish.”

Hardness, brilliance, matrix (or spider-web pattern), and the rarity of the mine determine the price of turquoise. “Nothing is wrong with inexpensive turquoise jewelry, but you should know what you’re buying. Less than 10 percent of the Indian jewelry is made with ‘natural’ turquoise. ‘Indian Crafted’ means assembled from prefabricated parts, often made in Asia. ‘Indian Handmade’ means that every step — from raw material to finished product — was crafted by an Indian artist. That’s the difference between a $10 and $100 pair of earrings. But both are beautiful.”

Armed with Lowry’s illustrated guidebook, "Turquoise Unearthed", we begin our turquoise quest in Old Town, where Native Americans sell the modern version of an art form that predates recorded history. Archeologists unearthed 56,000 pieces of turquoise in a single burial at nearby Chaco Canyon. Mayan ruins from as far away as Honduras contained jewelry with stones mined from the fabled Cerrillos Hills along the Turquoise Trail.

The Turquoise Trail turns north off I-40 at Tijeras, ten minutes from Old Town. Little museums, bizarre roadside attractions, fine-art and craft galleries, trading posts, B&Bs, and mom-and-pop cafes line the winding corridor through the juniper pinyon covered hills. Take time to chat with the locals and you’ll discover people who are inspired, wacky, visionary, but most of all, have an ardent passion for life.

At Cedar Crest, the Turquoise Trail RV Park includes the Museum of Archeology and Material Cultural, which explains the area’s Native American history. At Sandia Park, Hwy. 536 spurs off to the 10,678-foot Sandia Crest with a visitors center, hiking trails, restaurant, and the world’s longest tram to the base of the mountains. Along the spur, the Tinkertown Museum features hundreds of hand-carved, animated, folk-art miniatures recently featured on PBS’s "Antiques Roadshow".

The scenic byway continues north past the Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Club, rated the 20th best public course in the nation by Golf Digest. Pinyon pines and scrubby junipers cover the rounded, mineral-rich hills, and snow-capped mountains frame the distance. With eye-aching blue skies and hundred-mile views, it’s easy to see why this area inspires both artists and mystics.

Approaching Madrid, a sign warns “Congestion Ahead.” We round a bend and slow to a crawl. On weekends, pedestrians turn the village into one extended shopping mall as they crisscross the highway between galleries and shops. We park and join the procession. The owner of Chumani Gallery, Todd Klippenstein, greets us when we enter his eclectic store. Beside his own paintings, sculpture, and jewelry, Klippenstein displays the work of about 30 artists, mostly from the nearby Santo Domingo Pueblo. The Puebloans have been mining the volcanic hills since the 1300s.

“They were the original caretakers of the turquoise mines,” Klippenstein says. “I mine my own turquoise, too. It’s important to maintain the circle of continuity with the native jewelers.” Klippenstein works in many mediums but focuses on his brightly-colored abstract angel paintings, which carry four-figure prices.

Both the psychic energy, which inspires his angel paintings, and the unity among the community of artists attracted Klippenstein to Madrid from his home in South Dakota. “Madrid is one of the last towns that is owned and operated by artists who work and show in their own galleries. Everyone in town is different but we give honor and respect to each other and keep our work going. This is a wonderful area for the creative process.”

Madrid offers the best selection for lunch along the route. Dining at the Tocororo Café, owned by Cuban artist Olga Delulogeu, is an artistic as well as culinary delight. The artist decorated the tabletops and walls with her colorful Caribbean motifs. Across the street, the Mine Shaft Tavern serves a more locally inspired roadhouse menu.

Down the street, Maggie's Main Street Diner may look familiar if you saw the movie Wild Hogs with an all-star cast of John Travolta, William H. Macy, Ray Liotta, Tim Allen and Martin Lawrence. The storefront was built as prop for the film. The area’s stunning scenery and rich history has attracted many filmmakers and served as a backdrop for dozens of movies, including All the "Pretty Horses" (2000), "Young Guns" (1988) John Wayne’s "The Cowboys" (1973), and "Easy Rider" (1969).

Driving into the little mining town of Cerrillos feels like entering a Western set. The dirt streets, adobe houses and clapboard storefronts haven’t changed much since cars replaced horses. Todd Brown left Long Island at age 17 and now owns the Casa Grande Trading Post and Mining Museum. “That was 36 years and six kids ago.” He smiles and adds, “But only one wife.”

Brown sells jewelry made from turquoise he mines from the famed Little Chalichihuiti mine, which dates back 700 years. His five-room “museum” is more a hodge-podge of mining, Native American and geological artifacts piled on tables, stacked on shelves, hanging from the ceiling, and propped in corners. “I have a thousand objects in every room, each worth a dollar a piece,” he jests. His treasures also made the "Antiques Roadshow".

The Turquoise Trail leaves the hills and continues past Lone Butte onto the treeless high plains. Pronghorn antelope often graze near the highway and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains form a scenic backdrop for Santa Fe.  Hwy. 14 continues into Santa Fe, where it becomes Cerrillos Road and merges into the historic plaza. Chic galleries line the square and Native Americans offer their wares, blanket-to-blanket, along the sidewalks. Shoppers crowd the walkway and bounce from vendor to vendor. The frenetic pace gives me a greater appreciation for the heart-to-heart interactions in the little forgotten towns along the Turquoise Trail.

Photos by George Oxford Miller

If you go
Turquoise Trail
For a map and list of area attractions, accommodations, restaurants, and events, contact 888-263-0003, www.turquoisetrail.org.

Albuquerque Convention and Visitors Bureau
800-733-9918, itsatrip.org
Santa Fe
For information and a visitor’s guide, visit santafe.org.
Turquoise Museum
2707 Central Ave. NW, Albuquerque
505-274-8650